How to Store Acrylic Paint So It Lasts Longer

December 9, 2025

The simple goal: keep air out, keep seals clean

If you want acrylic paint to stay usable, focus on two things: minimise air contact with the paint, and keep the lid or cap sealing properly. Most “mystery dried paint” problems come from dried residue on threads, tiny gaps in a seal, or extra air space sitting above the paint.

Store at a steady room temperature. Avoid freezing temperatures and hot spots (like a sunny windowsill or near a heater), because big temperature swings can speed up drying and create skinning.
Label what you will forget. Add a quick note on masking tape: colour name, date, and any mix ratio, so you do not have to guess later.
Do not “pre-thin for storage” unless you will use it soon. Adding water can help when you are about to paint, but long storage with extra water can increase the risk of spoilage. If you need to adjust thickness, do it right before you start painting again.

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Storing acrylic paint in a jar

Jars are convenient, but the “headspace” (the air above the paint) is where drying starts. The aim is to leave the paint surface as smooth and compact as possible, and make sure the lid threads are clean so the seal stays airtight.

Clean the threads every time. Before you close the jar, wipe the threads on both the jar and lid with a damp paper towel, then wipe again with a dry towel. You should see the threads look clean and not gummy, so the lid can tighten fully without sticking shut later.
Level the paint to reduce surface area. Once the lid is on tight, tap the base of the jar on the table 2–3 times. You should see the paint settle into a flatter surface with fewer deep grooves, which means less paint surface exposed to the trapped air.
For longer breaks, add a cling film “skin” on the paint. If you will not open the jar for a few weeks or more, press a piece of cling film directly onto the paint surface (aim for no trapped bubbles), then close the lid. This reduces the air contact even if there is a bit of headspace.
Extra note for gritty or chunky gels. Texture gels with larger particles (for example, gritty texture gels like nepheline gel) have more tiny surfaces exposed to air, so they can skin faster. The thread-cleaning and cling film steps matter more here if you are storing for any length of time.

Storing acrylic paint in a tube

Tubes have a built-in advantage: they collapse as you use paint, so there is less air inside compared with a jar. The weak point is the opening and cap area, where paint can dry and glue the cap shut or break the seal.

Wipe the cap threads and the tube neck. Before you recap, remove any paint from the threads and rim with a damp cloth, then dry it. If you have ever had to use pliers to open a tube, this is the step that prevents it.
Keep the opening clean, especially on flip caps. If your tube has a flip-top cap, check the little plug area as well. You should see a clean contact point so it snaps shut and seals, not a ring of dried paint holding it open.
Push paint forward from the back. Use a tube squeezer, or a firm flat object, to press paint from the crimped end forward like toothpaste. This reduces leftover air pockets and helps you use the tube evenly.
For long storage, add a cling film barrier at the opening. If you will not open the tube for a long while, place a small square of cling film over the opening, then screw the cap on. It is a simple extra gasket that can slow down drying at the nozzle.

Saving palette mixes, plus rehydrating thickened paint

Mixed colour on a palette has already been exposed to lots of air, so it will dry faster than paint left in its original container. Some people keep palettes “wet” with misting or damp cloths, but we generally do not recommend storing acrylics in a persistently moist environment because it can encourage bacteria and mould, especially over multiple days.

Best option for more than a day or two: transfer to a small container. Scrape your mix into a sealable container (even a small jar), then follow the jar storage steps above. If the paint feels noticeably thicker than when you mixed it, add a few drops of water while stirring to restore working consistency, and stop as soon as it moves smoothly again.
Short-term option: bulk it up and cover the surface. If you will paint again within 24–48 hours, gather the mix into one thicker mound (avoid a thin smear across the palette), then press cling film directly onto the surface. You should see the film make full contact with the paint, not tent over it, because air gaps are where skin forms.
Checking older paint: thickened is often fixable, fully dried is not. If paint has thickened but is not a solid rubbery mass, you can often rehydrate by adding small amounts of water and mixing thoroughly. If it has dried completely into a solid piece, there is unfortunately no reliable way to bring it back to usable acrylic paint.

Quick safety check: if stored paint smells sour, shows fuzzy growth, or has obvious contamination, it is best to discard it rather than mix it back into your work.

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