Rule 1: Check the binder statement, not just the word “acrylic”
“Acrylic paint” on the front label is not always the whole story. Look for clear binder language on the package (for example, whether it is a pure acrylic polymer emulsion or a blend). When the binder information is vague, assume the paint may behave differently than a true artist acrylic, especially for adhesion, flexibility, and long-term durability.
Rule 2: For professional colours, look for pigment codes (and cleaner mixes)
If you care about predictable mixing, look for pigment identification on the label (examples: PW6, PB29, PR254). Pigment codes help you avoid muddy mixes and let you rebuild a colour later. Paints that hide pigment information can still be fine for practice, but they are harder to use for controlled colour work.
Step-by-step plan: buy only what you will use (10 minutes)
- Choose your level: professional for finished work, student for learning and underpainting, classroom for groups and quick projects.
- Choose your “body”: thick for texture, fluid for glazing and detail.
- Pick a starter palette: 6–8 colours (warm and cool primaries, white, and one dark).
- Pick one medium: a gel medium if you want body, or a fluid medium if you want smoother flow.
- Decide your surface: plan one support type for the month so your results are comparable.
- Set a session size: one canvas or a set of small studies, then buy paint quantities to match.
- Do a 5-minute swatch test: label it with the colour name and date, you will learn faster.
- Make a re-order rule: only replace the colours you actually finished, not the ones you feel you “should” own.